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Split & Čevapčići

16 May

Hi all! Yep, I’m back! Totally jetlagged and a little cranky but truly a better person for having gone away for a bit!

I’m glad everyone liked the guest bloggers, wiley little devils ain’t they?

I’ve been hemming and hawing about how to blog our little adventure and decided, well, isn’t it just best to start at the beginning?

We arrived (after approximately 19 hours of travel) in the old town of Split, the city that sprung up out of the emperor Diocletian’s retirement home. This is one old and beautiful city! The most amazing thing about not just Split, but all of Croatia that I never got from looking at the guide books is how seriously hilly and mountainous it is! The coast is backed up against absolutely ginormous mountains that both affect the weather and create absolutely breathtaking vistas whilst traveling by ferry (and breathtaking in an entirely different way whilst traveling by bus or car!)

But anyway, I digress. Our first move, logically, was to go wandering and exploring. Somehow, we climbed at least halfway up the Marjan, a 123 meter hill on the west side of town. The view, with a huge thunderstorm moving in, was amazing. We actually climbed the sucker the next day, which led, of course, to a very pressing need to EAT!

Wandering about town I spotted a place with lots of school kids hanging out and stuffing their faces, always a good sign! So, we peeked in and we realised that the place was selling one thing, and one thing only, a little sausage we had discovered the evening before at dinner, Čevapčići.

(The first two Cs in this word have little Vs over top of them, č, indicating a “ch” noise and the final c an acute sign over-top, ć, indicating a kinda lispy c noise; CHEV-ap-chee-chi).

Anyway, Čevapčići are little sausage-thingies made of either pork or beef (or a combo), lightly spiced and shaped into little logs (they have no casings and are actually almost a little bit like a kebab). They are DELICIOUS! and when served as Croatian “fast food” they are served with the most beautiful, soft, luxurious bread, an insanely tasty and addictive pepper relish and raw onions.

We came to find out later that the place we went, Kantun Paulina, is far and away one of the most famous Čevapčići places in Split (and Croatia too I believe!). It’s been in business for decades and looks like it will be there for many, many more. So the next time you’re in Split, ask a local for directions to Paulina’s (make sure to say Havala!). You can thank me later…