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heirloom·modern: Cold Tomato And Lemon Soup

19 Jun

Hello everyone, happy Monday! I’d like to introduce a new editorial feature today that I’m hoping will become at least a monthly, if not more frequent, feature. heirloom·modern is a way to resurrect forgotten recipes and give them a new lease on life. First up a cold summer soup from the Seventies.

Giorgio Sant’Angelo’s Cold Tomato And Lemon Soup

(Adapted from Food In Vogue by Maxime de la Falaise)

A few months back I picked up this book at The Strand . I thought it was cool, but I never really took it seriously until this weekend. Published in 1980 (back when Vogue had good food writers other than Jeffrey Steingarten) but containing recipes that go back to the ’40s it is broken down into two categories; recipes and menus that were features in the magazine, and a collection of surprisingly good recipes from celebrities (including a wonderful recipe for poulet a l’estragon from Jacqueline Onassis that will just have to wait until the weather is cool again).

This recipe comes from a menu created by the fashion designer Giorgio Sant’Angelo (apparently he was a favorite of Diana Vreeland) that showcases the flavors and aromas of lemons. The recipe as it was printed is barely a recipe. There’s ingredients that never get used, no measurements and steps that should be eliminated (as well as a few ingredients I felt should be added). If ever there was a recipe that needed (and deserved) a makeover, this was it.

What I came up with was easy, cooling and delicious, perfect for the first truly hot summer weekend in NYC. If I were to make this again there are four changes I would make. 1. I would add a rib or two of celery for sweetness. 2. I would make this only when I’m sure the onion I’ve just purchased that was marked “Vidalia” was in fact a vidalia. 3. I would use thai or lemon basil in place of the parsley as a garnish. And 4. I would eliminate the ice cubes completely.

I served this with a charcuterie plate and a lovely South African Chenin Blanc. Actually, at first the wine wasn’t so lovely, but the minute you tasted it after tasting the soup, the entire flavor profile of the wine changed dramatically. It mellowed and became almost buttery sweet. A wonderfully pleasant and surprising pairing.

Head below the jump for my version of this delicious summer soup.
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